Welcome to SAWAland Santorini: The Greek Isle beach of your dreams is only a dog walk away

Santorini Animal Welfare Association (Part 1)

The entrance to SAWAland animal shelter on Santorini, Greece. Photo by Carrie Dow.

When we turned off the highway and into Santorini’s southern vineyards, we weren’t surprised to be on a low maintenance gravel road. We had rented a Polaris RZR OVR (off road vehicle), a vehicle that could handle this kind of road. Heck, even the paved roads of this volcanic rock island in the Mediterranean Sea were not in the best shape. As the raised grapevines gave way to scrub brush, however, it caught us off guard when the road turned to dirt and dropped down into a narrow canyon. We worried our GPS put us on the wrong path until we saw a fence with a giant banner that read SAWAland. We found our destination.

Even with the sun still low in the mid-morning sky, the day was already hot when we parked at Santorini Animal Welfare Association aka SAWAland in the far southern part of the island of Santorini, Greece. We heard dogs barking as we exited the vehicle and were greeted by Dorna, a young German volunteer. When I asked if she worked for SAWA, Dorna said it was her second-to-last day of a 3-month, live-in volunteer stint, so her mood was bittersweet. She asked if we had walked shelter dogs before, to which we replied yes and after sizing us up as somewhat athletic people, she immediately gave my husband one of the largest dogs in the shelter, Piero. I was given Mr. Pickles, a medium-sized hunting dog. Dorna said Mr. Pickles was not to be let off leash because he likes to run away. Piero, however, could be off leash, but not until we got to the shelter’s private beach. Dorna said a third dog, a mostly white mutt named Peewee, would follow us off leash. Dorna said Peewee liked to run up and down the canyon road walls, ‘like a crazy dog,’ but would follow us and not run away.

The dog kennels at SAWAland in Santorini. Photo by Carrie Dow.

Dorna then explained there was an umbrella for shade at the beach and water bowls for the dogs and gave us each a poop bag and a few tiny dog biscuits which we put in our pockets. Dorna mentioned there was already another couple walking two other dogs, but other than that, we would have the beach to ourselves. Dorna then gave us two plastic water bottles for the dogs and asked if we needed some for us. We did not because I already had some from the hotel in my bag. She pointed back to the road we arrived on and said the beach was that way and we began the half-mile walk.

Dorna wasn’t kidding when she said Peewee was a little crazy. A more diplomatic word would be ‘energetic.’ His running up and down the canyon walls proved highly distracting to Piero who tried to follow him, forcing my husband to keep a tight grip on the leash. Mr. Pickles didn’t try to chase Peewee, but he was excited to be out of the kennel. We spent most of the half mile trying to maintain some control while the dogs pulled us along the dirt road.

SAWAland’s private beach. Photo by Carrie Dow.

When we finally reached the beach, we had to take a breath – not just because we were tired, but because it was breathtakingly beautiful. A long crescent of dark volcanic sand stretched for what looked like a mile in both directions. The beach was bordered by a towering wall of rock jutting above the pebbly beach. A few steps away was a single beach umbrella made of raffia like those found at Santorini’s resort beaches. Underneath was a little table, two stainless steel dog bowls, and a single stool. It was the kind of top-secret Mediterranean beach scene that travel influencers drool over.

My husband let Piero off leash and he took off toward the couple Dorna had mentioned who were walking toward us. At the far eastern end was a group of people on horseback and beyond them in the distance was a beach resort. Piero ran past the couple and toward the horses, so we called after him. He stopped and turned around before he reached them.

We said hello to the other couple, who were British. We all marveled at the amazing, secluded beach we were on and introduced our dogs to each other. Then the man said it was getting too hot for him and they headed back. Piero started to follow them, and we had to put him back on the leash to keep him from leaving.

Mr. Pickles took a dip in the sea. Photo by Carrie Dow.

Once the couple and their dogs were out of sight, Piero was freed, and he and Peewee began chasing each other around the beach. Watching them sprint in full stride was an enjoyable sight, their tongues hanging outside their mouths which were curled into smiles. This moment was why we take shelter dogs on walks on vacation in the first place. It also meant the dogs were going to be extremely tired and ready for a nap when they got back to the shelter. Taking shelter dogs for walks will help them to relax the rest of the day while also giving shelter staff a much needed break. 

The rock wall along the beach had three small caves carved along the beach. They looked man-made and big enough for a person to fit in and refreshingly cool. A bit past the umbrella was a residence carved into the rock wall, but as we got closer, we saw a cross at the very top. A church? Whatever it was, it looked brand new.

Returning the dogs to the shelter after their walk. Photo by Carrie Dow.

The group of horse riders left up another canyon path making us officially alone. I then walked Mr. Pickles to where the horses had been. From there I could the resort at the far end.

Returning to the umbrella, I let Mr. Pickles walk in the water. I tried to get him to run by jogging alongside him, but he wasn’t interested. He was more interested in sniffing the rocks.

When we rejoined my husband, Piero had stopped running and was drinking water from the bowls under the umbrella. Peewee had disappeared. My husband suggested we give each dog one of the treats. Both dogs dutifully sat when we told them to and were rewarded with the tiny snacks. I emptied the other water bottle into a bowl so Mr. Pickles could drink. When I asked about Peewee, my husband said he ran back up the canyon road. We walked down the beach toward the church/house structure again, Piero sniffing along the wall and Mr. Pickles near the water.

I had my hiking shoes and socks on, but the water was so tempting, I walked right in with Mr. Pickles up to my shins. While it was hot in the sun, the water was cool, the waves were low, and the wind whipped loudly. It was spectacular. I didn’t mind my shoes and socks getting soaked with water and caked with sand. However, if I ever do this again, I’ll wear a swimsuit and water sandals and take a dip.

Dogs and volunteers can hang out on SAWAland’s beach on the island of Santorini in the Greek Isles. Photo by Carrie Dow.

The dogs seemed to lose some of their energy and with the day getting hotter, we decided to head back. Peewee reappeared and he and Piero ran a large circle around us. We used our remaining snacks to lure Piero back to the leash.

With the sun now high above, the walk up the canyon road wasn’t as shady as before. Peewee must have tired because he didn’t run up the walls. Mr. Pickles and Piero were a bit better behaved on the leash now, but as soon as the fence for SAWAland came into view, both dogs perked up and began pulling again. Peewee took off to meet Dorna. When we got to the gate, Dorna was ready to put both dogs back into the kennel.

Dorna told us that the dogs we had were called Goofies because they had so much energy. The Goofies, about eight of them all males, had a section of the large, fenced kennel area all to themselves. Dorna said that the elderly dogs had their own space and a mama dog with puppies had another separate space. At the far end of each kennel were covered shelters providing a shady place for the dogs to rest.

I asked if SAWA’s director Christina Kaloudi was there. Dorna said she was with the horses and mules up on top of the mesa above the dog kennels. She was giving a tour to the British couple we met earlier and we were welcome to join them.

End of Part 1

Want to follow in our footsteps? While anyone can walk dogs for SAWA, know this before you go. The distance to the beach is downhill a half-mile (0.8km) and the path consists of rocky sand. The beach is a mix of sand, pebbles, and rocks, and will be extremely hot during the summer tourist season. SAWAland has water available, but they have to truck it in so it’s best to bring your own to save theirs. Treat the dog walk more like a hike and know your physical limits (the return is uphill). Sturdy shoes, a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses are highly recommended. Also, trust what the staff tell you about the dogs and do as they say because they know their personalities best.

Pierro (near) and Peewee enjoying their beach time. Photo by Carrie Dow.